LIDANHEW STUD

CARE SHEET

PLEASE TAKE TIME TO CONSIDER WHAT BREED OF RABBIT WOULD MOST SUIT YOU AND THINK ABOUT THE THINGS YOU WILL NEED BEFORE BUYING YOUR RABBIT.

1) SIZE OF HUTCH - The bigger the rabbit the bigger the hutch is needed please remember that youngsters and adults love to play and need space to do so.

NB:    A rabbit’s front teeth work by grinding together and wearing each other down this is why they chew their hutch. Fruit branches are ideal for a rabbit to chew but make sure they haven’t been sprayed with pesticides.

If planning to put the hutch in your garage then remember what blasts out the exhaust every morning, not very pleasant or suitable so only suitable if car is not stored in it.

2) HAY - As hay is the rabbits main food a good quality hay should be used and given on a daily basis, this benefits your rabbit by giving it something to chew on which is good for its teeth and provides a good stimulant for the gut. Rabbits love hay look for one with a good amount of greenery through it Marlaw hay is one that is sold in most pet shops in this area and is usually fresh and of high quality. Remember dusty hay can harbour mites so should be avoided.If you do get mites you can try using DYNA-MITE available from good stockists or a trip to the vet will easily cure it.

   3) DRY FEED - Pellets are by far the best feed as they guarantee the rabbit has a balanced diet although some breeds do enjoy a mix, the key to feeding a mix is not to top up the bowl but wait until the rabbit has eaten everything in the mix. Rabbits can be selective eaters and if allowed to do so can have problems in later life because of it. Most breeders will give a supply of food the rabbit is accustom too with the rabbit (if they don't then ask for some!) It is important to wean any young rabbits gradually by mixing some of the new food through the food it is currently used to as any sudden change to a young rabbits diet can be fatal. Take the time to find out what veg if any is fed and be careful when introducing any new ones you do not want your rabbit to bloat and lose it.

4) VEGETABLES- There is loads of veg that can be feed to a rabbit the key is to remember

INTRODUCE VERY GRADUALLY UNTILL THE RABBIT BECOMES ACCUSTOM TO IT

ALWAYS SMALL AMOUNTS

NEVER WET VEG OR VEG FROM THE FRIDGE

Here are some favorites:- Broccoli, spring greens, carrot, cauliflower leaves, kale & celery.

5) WATER BOTTLE - A fresh supply of water must always be available to your rabbit. A thirsty rabbit wont eat!

6) SHAVINGS - Use shavings on the complete floor of your hutch for the rabbit to live on although there are other products available these days if you prefer something different. But please remember that News paper print is toxic to a rabbit

7)Rabbit runs.  If you intend to use a rabbit run then be aware that the grass will quickly become contaminated and has to be moved on a regular basis. Also be aware that it is natural for a rabbit to dig so a weld mesh base may be required. However the biggest danger with using a run is that Mr Fox, Mrs Stoat, William Weasel and friends will all be very interested in what’s going on in the rabbit run. This is not just a country problem there are many town foxes etc very capable of breaking and entering so always be around to supervise.

8) VACCINES - It is important to have your rabbit vaccinated against Miximitosis as this is carried on a flea house rabbits and outdoor rabbits should both be done. Also the VHD injection is now very adviseable as several outbreaks have been in Scotland last year.

 Consult your vet for details on injections.

Rabbits can be vaccinated from 8wks of age.

9)Ringed rabbit.       If you purchase your rabbit from an exhibition breeder then your rabbit may have a ring on its back leg; this shouldn’t cause a problem providing you don’t overfeed. Check ring weekly to see that it can freely turn and there is no hay tangled in it. The ring can be cut off if it is causing problems with special pliers; an experienced breeder or a vet can do this.

10) Always supervise young children when they are with the rabbits.

11) MOST OF ALL ENJOY YOUR RABBIT!!

Remember a rabbit living on its own will thrive on your attention so please spend time with them they do love it, you only get out of it what you put into it just like a puppy.

Two rabbits living together will be more affectionate to each other than to you although they will still enjoy your company.

If considering buying two rabbits it is really best two buy two litter mates and one of each sex and to have them neutered at the vets to prevent any unwanted babies.  There is no guarantee that two doe's will live together indefinitely you may need to separate them when they are older. Two bucks is something we do not recommend.

I HOPE YOU ENJOY YOUR RABBIT AS MUCH

 AS I ENJOY ALL MINE.